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a) Tsunami waves in the ocean behave like deep water waves.
b) Considering linear wave forcing, the maximum inertial force acting on a pile will coincide with the passing of the wave crest.
c) Given the similar free stream velocities, the bed shear stress resulting from wave driven currents is greater than the bed shear stress under a steady, uni-directional current.
d) Wave runup is more dependent on the wave period than the wave height.
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a) The barometric setdown associated with a stationary high pressure system is of the order 10cm/hPa. b) Refraction is the process by which wave energy spreads out beside
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