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a) Tsunami waves in the ocean behave like deep water waves.
b) Considering linear wave forcing, the maximum inertial force acting on a pile will coincide with the passing of the wave crest.
c) Given the similar free stream velocities, the bed shear stress resulting from wave driven currents is greater than the bed shear stress under a steady, uni-directional current.
d) Wave runup is more dependent on the wave period than the wave height.
our little brother has just learnt to write one, two and three, in English. He has written a lot of those words in a paper, your task is to recognize them. Note that your little br
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