Reference no: EM133662797

Assignment:

Basic Wave Relations

In your own words, what is meant by "wave period?"

1. In normal wave action, which moves forward, the wave form or the water?
2. As a wave passes, water particles move in what geometric shape?
3. What causes normal surface waves to form?
4. What three things about the wind determine how big a wave will ultimately become?

Current Conditions

There are several ocean buoys scattered around the Hawaiian Islands that help forecast incoming swells. Go to the NOAA buoy website to see their locations. At the site, click on "51000" (the buoy is drifting north of Oahu and "51004" (the buoy south of 'Oahu) and scroll down to answer the following questions: NOTE: if a buoy is not working or missing information, just use data from the nearest working buoy.

1. What are the time and the date of the latest observation for each buoy?
2. What are the current wave heights (WVHT in feet) for each buoy?
3. What are the current dominant wave periods (DPD in seconds) for each buoy? If not available, scroll down and use swell period (SwP).

Buoy 51000:

Buoy 51004:

Speed of the Wave (mph) = 1.7 x Dominant Wave Period (seconds)

Travel Time (hours) = Distance (miles) / Speed (mph)

Arrival time at shore = Time at buoy + Travel Time

Assume the distance is 255 miles for all calculations.

1. What is the speed of the wave using Buoy 51000 data?
2. What is the travel time for the wave at Buoy 51000 to reach Waimea Bay?
3. When would the swell occurring at Buoy 51000 recorded above arrive at Waimea Bay (assuming north swell)?
4. What is the speed of the wave using Buoy 51004 data?
5. What is the travel time for the wave at Buoy 51004 to reach Ala Moana?
6. When would the swell occurring at Buoy 51004 recorded above arrive at Ala Moana (assuming south swell)?