How does wave height and relative wave height vary across

Reference no: EM13551423

1. Print out each of your 8 nearshore plots showing wave height, relative wave height (H_s, h^-1), shoaling coefficient and friction coefficient. On each plot, identify the areas of wave shoaling (increasing Ks), areas of deshoaling (decreasing Ks), the point(s) of wave breaking and the saturated surf zone.

2. In general, describe how does wave height and relative wave height vary across this nearshore zone for each wave setting and what is the relative importance of wave height and period to wave transformation?

3. Describe how wave transformation in the nearshore is affected by wave height and wave period.

4. For each of your 8 plots describe the relative position (onshore, at, offshore) of the breakpoint relative to bars 1, 2 and 3. The position of the breakpoint becomes quite important when we start talking about nearshore morphology and change and we will return to this model to predict nearshore response to different wave events.

2240_What is the role of the outermost bar.png

5. GRADUATE STUDENT QUESTION: What is the role of the outermost bar on the behavior of inner bars? A paper by Houser and Greenwood (2005) is provided to help with your answer.

Reference no: EM13551423

Questions Cloud

What are the total expenses for 2012 : What are the total expenses for 2012

Congress decides to completely overhaul the current federal : Congress decides to completely overhaul the current federal

Define the balanced equation for the reaction : The sulfuric acid acts as a catalyst to remove one molecule of water from 2 molecules of ethanol. What is the balanced equation for this reaction

Thermal energy is transferred by heat from the sun to earth : The surface of the Sun is approximately at 5700 K, and the temperature of the Earth’s surface is approximately 280 K. What entropy change occurs when 860 J of thermal energy is transferred by heat from the Sun to Earth?

How does wave height and relative wave height vary across : How does wave height and relative wave height vary across this nearshore zone for each wave setting and what is the relative importance of wave height and period to wave transformation?

What is the angle for the third-order maximum : The first-order principal maximum produced by a grating is located at an angle of ? = 11.6 degrees. What is the angle for the third-order maximum with the same light

What is the change in entropy of the system : Suppose 1.86 kg of water at 14.4C is mixed with 2.28 kg of water at 79C. After equilibrium is reached, the mixture has an uniform temperature of 49.9768C. What is the change in entropy of the system? The speci?c heat of water is 4186 J/kg · K.

Estimate the wavelength and frequency of each standing wave : Waves on a 10 meter rope travel at 20 m/s. You shake the rope back and forth until you get a standing wave with a single antinode, What is the wavelength and frequency of each standing wave

Explain what are the [h3o+] and the ph of a propanoate : What are the [H3O+] and the pH of a propanoate buffer that consists of 0.47 M CH3CH2COONa and 0.12 M CH3CH2COOH? Ka of propanoic acid = 1.3 10-5.

User Account

All Pages